Haworth and the Bronte Parsonage Museum

Before I jump into Haworth, I just want to say: I ROCK. At public transport, that is. You cannot even imagine how tiny the village of Haworth is. But I got there. What's more, I took two trains and a bus to get within half a mile of my hostel. I then took two more buses and a train to get to Manchester. Basically, what I'm telling you is, if you need me to get to ANY place on this island...a city, or a village, or maybe a specific field of sheep... I am 100% confident that can do it.

NOW! A few pictures.

This is...MY HOSTEL. That's right. I stayed in an old Victorian home. The rooms were spacious and all had their own fireplace. I was pleased.
This is just a picture of the countryside surround Haworth. It was positively gorgeous!
This is the church of the Pastor Patrick Bronte, the father of the Bronte sisters. Just below is a picture of the graveyard close by. Deaths were extremely common in Haworth at this time because of very unsanitary water supply.
And at last, this is the Bronte Parsonage, now turned museum. I was not allowed to take pictures inside, but it was a fantastic experience nonetheless.

The highlight was standing in the very room where Charlotte, Anne, and Emily used to spend their evenings, writing and talking about their stories. It was the room in which Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights were written, and this thought gave me the tingles. Jane Eyre is one of my favorite books; I could hardly put it down the first time I read it. I really felt connected to Jane, like we were kindred spirits. And at that moment, standing in that room, I felt like I was in the presence of Charlotte, and like I should whisper a little "thank you" for her contribution to the beauty in the world. I didn't, so as not to appear insane, but I at least thought it.

I am so blessed to be here in Britain where I can celebrate and pay homage to my favorite authors. My next pilgrimage will be in a week or so, to Winchester Cathedral to pay my respects at Jane Austen's final resting place. It seems silly, but I'm almost positive I will tear up a bit.

Anyway, I'm now in Liverpool, awaiting my parents' arrival tomorrow! I can't wait to see them, or to have some traveling companions.

Til it be morrow!

A Massive Entry about Little Scotland: Edinburgh, the Highlands, and Glasgow

I'm going to put off blogging about Haworth, the Bronte Parsonage Museum, and Adventures in British Public Transport until tomorrow. For now: SCOTLAND!

I must say, I quite enjoyed Scotland. The history (and their continuing tension with the English) is fascinating. Not to mention the scenery is beautiful, the accents are fun, and the food is only for the daring! Good thing I'm the least picky eater I know.

Let's start in Edinburgh. First of all, so you don't all sound like dolts, be sure you pronounce this correctly: Eh-din-bruh. With a short e sound, and no "berg." God help you if you said Ee-din-berg to a Scot.

I took a FANTASTIC free walking tour, provided by a company called Sandeman (the tour guide works only for tips). If you're planning on being anywhere in Europe, look up this company; they have free walking tours in many cities. It was cold and rainy the entire 3-hour tour, and I had STILL an excellent experience. Here are a few places our guide, James, showed us in the city: This is St. Gile's Cathedral. Technically it isn't a cathedral, because it lacks the one thing a building requires in order to be a cathedral: a bishop. The Scots are Presbyterian. But they liked the name Cathedral, so Cathedral it is. This is an old preserved staircase with a trip step, a popular feature in the 1600s. You can see it, 3 steps up. It was meant to catch thieves. He would trip on the step and fall to his death or at least injure himself enough that he could just be rolled out into the street the next day. Unfortunately, because the drinking water was so dirty, most people just drank beer and ale all day, because it was made using water from springs that was safe to drink. This fact caused many [drunk] people to fall victim to their own trip steps...even causing death in a few instances.
Just a cute street in Edinburgh! So you can get a feel for the architecture. This is a side of Edinburgh castle that sits on what is called a crag (the dark rock below it). Crags are made of volcanic rock. Surprise you a little? It's because where Edinburgh sits today used to be located at the equator, wayyy back when the single land mass Pangea existed on Earth. Boo-yah, science! Me, in front of Edinburgh Castle. When the Queen visits Scotland (maybe once a year for a few days), this is where she stays! I didn't go inside, but I heard it's more like a museum than a castle. This would be the famous haggis, layered on top of tatties (mashed potatoes), doused in the traditional whiskey cream sauce, and garnished with some oatcakes. To quote Wikipedia: "Haggis is a dish containing sheep's 'pluck' (heart, liver and lungs), minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock, and traditionally simmered in the animal's stomach for approximately three hours. Most modern commercial haggis is prepared in a casing rather than an actual stomach." There ya have it folks. And it was DELICIOUS. Kind of herby.

Moving right along. My second full day in Scotland, I went on a Rabbie's tour of the Highlands, including Glencoe and Loch Ness. I planned this so I could join my friend Greer, an amazing girl I met in the IES London program, and her parents for the day! It was well-worth the money. As I have already mentioned to some people, I am definitely a city girl. But the Scottish Highlands might be the only place on this planet that could tempt me to lead a simple country lifestyle. Here are some pictures!


The body of water in the above two pictures is Loch Ness! It is the largest lake in the Highlands, running about 24 miles long and getting up to 1,000 feet deep in some areas. We learned a little about Nessie, and how they think the "monster" might be some relative of the plesiosaurus. If it exists, of course. Part of the mystery surrounding the Loch is that you simply can't SEE anything in there. The water is stained very dark from bits of mineral that come down from the land everytime it rains. You get more than a couple meters deep and it's pitch black.

Moving on now to Glasgow! This city reminded me of a mini-London in some ways. I also met up with Greer and her parents in this fashion capital of Scotland. We went to dinner at a pub called Sloan's -- and it turned out to be quiz night! So of course we partook...and lost. Miserably. Our consolation prize (?) was apparently a can of meatballs. Pretty exciting stuff, folks.

Glasgow Necropolis: City of the Dead. Aptly named, but perhaps creepier than was truly necessary.
City Chambers. Just a really cool building, and has been in a few movies as a double for the Vatican.
Museum of Modern Art. I went in and looked through all the galleries, and what can I say...it was modern art. However, note the statue outside of Wellington astride his horse. He is wearing a traffic cone on his head. Apparently this prank is so common, the traffic cone is now considered his "traditional" headwear.
An old tower where you used to pay your taxes, hundreds of years ago. You could also be chained for 24 hours to some metal loops (which are still on the tower) as your punishment for gossiping.

All in all, I think I prefer the countryside of Scotland to the cities. But I had a great time! Another update coming your way tomorrow.

Cheers!

Backpacking Begins: Oxford and York

WHOA. So much to say. Let me start with Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason. It was BEYOND delicious, and so much fun! We got gazpacho and mini quiches to start, then our tea, then finger sandwiches and scones and desserts. I felt like a proper Englishwoman. Some pictures:





The next day, I set off on my own. I must say, it gets a little lonesome at times, but I do rather like taking train rides alone. It's good time to catch up on my journaling, and also to stare out the window and get a feel for the countryside. However, the nice thing about traveling on your own in Europe is that you will always meet other backpackers who are doing the same. You are in the same boat, so you are INSTANT friends. In fact, you get so caught up talking to people about where they've been and where they're going and why, that it isn't until about 20 minutes into a conversation that you exchange first names. Everyone talks to everyone and isn't afraid of anything. I have already met some great Twenty-Four Hour Friends (as I call them) who are just as eager to try new things as I am!

The first night I stayed in Oxford. I met some German girls, Alexa and Miriam, and we spoke a mixture of German and English to each other all night! It was fun. Overall I liked the town, but I think it disappointed somewhat after the glory that was London. Unfortunately the bus tour I did wasn't very informative, so I haven't much to share with you about the pictures, but you can at least get a feel for the city:

The picture above and the one below are both of Christ Church, a famous college at the University of Oxford. The university is made up of 38 colleges. Something interesting I found out is that you don't attend a specific college for a specific study -- you can study anything at any of the colleges. Seems a little silly to have 38 of them then.

Oxford Museum

University College, at Oxford University. (Oxford is made up of 39 colleges.) This is where Bill Clinton attended for a time...also where Stephen Hawking received his first degree in Physics. Boom.

The next morning I left for York, and I must say, I quite liked this city. I made a good friend named Jennifer, from Canada, who is 25 and spent the last year teaching primary school in Cambridge. We walked around the city together, got Yorkshire pudding, and went on an excellent walking tour the next day. Some pictures and stories about York:

The following two pictures are of the York Minster. It is a gorgeous gothic cathedral that took 252 years to build; it was completed in 1472.

The above is a bunker built during WWII. But not for humans. It was built to hide and protect all the medieval stained glass in the minster.

This is a statue erected for Constantine the Great. He was a Roman ruler who was crowned in York at the same time as another was crowned Emperor in Rome. It eventually came to a war, and the night before battle Constantine had a dream. He saw clouds, and they parted to reveal the Christian cross. A voice said, "Under this symbol you will win the battle," or something like that, and he was very moved by this and had all his soldiers paint crosses on their shields and Constantine announced they would fight the battle for Christianity. This is an extremely important moment in history: without Constantine's decision, Christianity may not have taken off as a world religion. It needed the support of an extremely successful empire to flourish. His decision essentially changed the course of Europe's history.

This is the remains of an abbey built by King William II, son of William I, or William the Conqueror. William and his father committed horrible crimes against humanity when William I became king, and later in life he began to fear for his soul. He built this abbey as an act of atonement, and asked the people to pray for him for 50 years that he might make it into Heaven.
This tiny walkway in York is called the Shambles. It is extremely famous for its narrow path and the yummy tea rooms and chocolatiers that stand here. At the top, you can see how close two of the buildings get to each other -- to the point that people hanging out of the windows could reach across and shake hands.

Right now I am in Edinburgh. This hostel isn't quite as nice as the two previous ones I stayed in, but it is right across the street from the train station, so it's terribly convenient, and I've met some pretty cool Australians here. To be honest, I've pretty much ONLY met Aussies. They flock to Edinburgh. I don't know what the deal is. I've only met one other American since showing up. Anyway, this has already been a long post, so I think I'll wait until after I'm done with my time in Scotland to post about Edinburgh and Glasgow (should be around the 5th).

London: The Cruel Lover Who Stole My Heart and Then My Wallet

Because tonight and tomorrow are going to be full of, "Oh, we forgot to make sure we did THIS while in London!" kind of moments, I'm going to say a few words commemorating the end of my study abroad program (which is official on Saturday morning).

To be cliche, it has been a dream come true. I have completely fallen in love with this city. I love everything about it. The pubs, the Indian food, the fish and chips, the public transportation, the parks, the shopping, the architecture, the history, the literature, the professors, the people, the cafes (shout out to Caffe Nero, they sponsored by caffeine addiction while staying here), even the cars driving on the left side of the street. I don't know how I'm going to fall asleep without the sounds of King's Road floating through my window at night.

Technically I'll be back to London in a week and a half to visit with my parents, but this Saturday marks the end of my living here, as a student. And the last time I'm going to see some of the people in my program for a long time!

The only thing I'm not going to miss: how astronomically EXPENSIVE everything is. Seriously. Even McDonald's is pushing it with their prices. London is a cruel lover who stole my heart and then my wallet.

So just to outline it for everyone at home, here are the places I will be visiting in the 16 days after the program and before my return to the States:
Canterbury (to see the Cathedral and St. Augustine's Abbey)
Oxford (duh)
York (to see the York Minster)
Edinburgh & Glasgow (where I will meet up with my friend Greer and her family for a few days and take a tour of the Highlands)
Windermere (to tour the lake district)
Haworth (to see the Bronte Parsonage)
Liverpool (where I will meet my parents and do some Beatles tours)
Dublin ('nuff said)
Back to London for a few days to show my parents around (and take a day trip to Winchester Cathedral so I can visit Jane Austen's final resting place)

The next two weeks will be packed, but I'm very excited to see more of the United Kingdom and do a little independent traveling! I always learn so much about myself when I do things on my own, so I don't feel very nervous about the times that I'll be alone. I've got a few Jane Austen books to keep me company, too. :)

I'll get back to you on how the famous Afternoon Tea experience goes tomorrow! Until then...stay classy, friends.

Brighton

My day trip on Sunday to the southern seaside town of Brighton was fantastic! (Best fish and chips I've had in England so far. 6 pounds well-spent.)

Once upon a time, Bath was the fashionable place to vacation and give your health a boost by soaking in the heated springs...until Brighton took over with its chilly ocean water. It became THE place to go to heal mild maladies (as well as a place to see and be seen at the right places with the right people). People even drank the saltwater as a health measure; but, since most people can't stomach that, they created a recipe that included cream and required boiling it to a congealed gelatin sort of concoction. Yummy.

Nowadays, it is a nice little vacation spot with a rocky beach (not sandy), a fun amusement park pier, and dozens of cute market-style sale booths and shops. Apparently, on a clear day, you can see France from the shore.

Here are some pictures of the area:

(Don't judge my hair. It was windy.)

The highlight of this trip was not only the fresh, open ocean air (which, by the way, was an incredible alternative to my stupid-small dorm room), but getting a chance to see the Brighton Pavilion. It was the most shockingly out-of-place, over-the-top fantasy palace. Here are some pictures, historical explanations to follow!






It was built near the end of the 1700s for George, Prince of Wales (later King George IV, who was known for his extravagant spending) as a seaside vacation home. It is, obviously, in the Indian style of architecture. However, the inside is decorated very ostentatiously in a traditional Chinese fashion.

It really is too bad that I couldn't take pictures inside, because it was INCREDIBLE. There were a lot of illusionist strategies that made the art on the wall pop out at you. Handrails and mirror frames looked like bamboo, even though they weren't. Carpet was so lush, you could feel your feet sink in a little bit. The kitchen had one of the first self-revolving spits over the cooking fire. The dining room chandelier, when lit, gave the impression that silver dragons were blowing fire, and the large dragon at the top of it was so life-like and scary that some guests refused to sit under it.

Probably my favorite palace I've visited since being here. And I've seen a lot of castles, let me tell ya.

Time to Get Misty-Eyed

I know it's been a while since I last posted, but I've been so BUSY! Classes are really hitting a high point this week and last. Who knew study abroad classes would be this time consuming? Not that I'm complaining. I'm in LONDON, after all.

I can't believe I only have 10 more days in this program. I have about 2 weeks more to explore the UK when it's over, but man, I'm gonna miss these people. It might sound trite, but we've been through a lot together! Navigating London, making day trip plans, experiencing pub culture, attempting to understand British English (and British menus, and British men)... We were thrown into this intense, stressful, emotional situation together and became a family. It's been a beautiful 6 weeks, and I'm gonna miss every last one of you.

Another thing that made me misty-eyed since the last time I updated you? The final Harry Potter film. Tears actually streamed down my face 6 separate times. I know everyone has said this, but part of me feels like my childhood has completed. When Professor McGonagall and the others began putting charms and spells on Hogwarts to protect it in the battle... The tears began. It sounds silly, but in a way, Hogwarts feels like my home too. Like any well-written novel I've read, I became attached to the characters and attuned to their intricacies, their worries, their flaws, their triumphs. I literally grew up with Harry Potter, practically the same age as he was with each book and film that came out, and his world became a part of mine. Now that both the books and films have ended, and I don't have more of Harry's story to look forward to, I feel like I've parted with a piece of myself.

I guess it doesn't help that I'm becoming a senior this year, and I'm going to have an internship and be looking into grad school and real career-related jobs soon... It all feels like it's moving so fast. There are many childish things I'll have to give up soon, and many more responsibilities I'll have to take up in their place. Forgive me for wanting to delay.

But, I'll have to say, seeing Harry Potter in London was priceless. Everyone cried, laughed, and clapped at all the right moments, like we were watching a live show. But I know this would've happened in America too. It was just special to watch it amongst the British, laugh with them, connect with them over this extremely touching saga set on their turf. (Oh, and it was neat to recognize some of the scenery too.)

I must sign off here for now, but my next posts will include: my personal review of the 8 London museums I have attended, an account of my day trip to Brighton, and my travel plans for after the program.

Until then... Keep your head up, Harry Potter fans. Michael Martinez of CNN said it best: "And though they are no longer budding wizards with broken glasses, bushy hair and dirty noses, the fans take comfort in knowing Potter will never be gone, not as long as those who remain are loyal to him."

The Shakespeare Post We All Knew Was Coming

Here is where I put everything else on pause and speak to you for a few moments about the greatness that is William Shakespeare.

While I have already been to the Globe Theatre, we took a more in-depth tour with a very knowledgeable guide last Tuesday, and Saturday (yesterday) we took a day-trip to Stratford upon Avon, where Shakespeare was born and buried. I'm also studying for a Shakespeare midterm, so I'm currently in a Shakespeare Fervor, as it were.

Some pictures, with captions following!


The above two pictures are of the house where Shakespeare was born and lived with his family. Shortly thereafter he lived in the smaller cottage next to it, which his family also owned, with his wife Anne. He was 18 and Anne was 26 when they married; they had a daughter 6 months later named Susanna. (You do the math.)

I know it's blurry, but this is one of the original copies of Shakespeare's portfolio of plays. Someone must have taken great pains to compile it, because back then, plays weren't written like we read them now. Shakespeare would've written out the different parts for different people and they were posted around the stage so actors knew what they were supposed to be doing during rehearsals.

Holy Trinity Church, a 15th-century church where Shakespeare is buried. Somewhat ironically, because it is a Protestant church (as all churches had to be at the time), and Shakespeare was Catholic. But alas, you want to be buried on hallowed ground, and so it had to be.

Shakespeare's grave site (next to his wife, Anne). I stood in quiet contemplation here. I couldn't believe I was standing before the very place where William was buried, a man who, as an English speaker, I owe so much. And as a lover of literature, theatre, art, and the study of the human condition...so much more.

Other things I have learned:

The year Shakespeare was born (1564), there was an outbreak of the plague in Stratford, and he was actually quite lucky to survive. Given that he has contributed thousands of words to the English language, I can't imagine what life would be like today had it not been for his existence.

Shakespeare did not attend university at Oxford or Cambridge, as some might have assumed. In fact, he didn't pursue higher education than high school (called grammar school at the time). What a thorn in the side that must be for traditionalists. But hey, when you're genius, you're genius.

We don't have any record of what William was up to between 1585 and 1592, when he finally showed up in London and people began performing his plays.

Shakespeare's style and plots were extremely original for his time. Before him, the only plays put on were Biblical stories and very simple tales that existed purely to teach morals.

William died in 1616 of consumption, an illness he contracted after a night of partying with one of his contemporaries, Ben Jonson.

The Globe theatre burned down in 1613 during a performance of Henry VIII. A canon misfired, hit the thatched roof, and the entire building burned down in about 2 hours. Of the thousands of people who were likely to have been in the audience, all got out alive. (Although one man's pants caught fire, luckily people threw their ale on him and put it out.) It was rebuilt with a tiled roof, but The Globe Theatre that stands in London today was built in the exact likeness (as much as we can guess, anyway) of the first model, which means it has the first approved thatched roof since the fire of 1666.



I could go on for days about this man. The more I study him, the more I am inspired by his wit and his cunning ability to not only capture the nature of humanity, but to do so in such a way that arrests all the senses. His characters steal my heart every time, and after seeing an AMAZING rendition of Macbeth by the Royal Shakespeare Company, I feel, in a way, indebted to him. The most I can do to show my gratitude is...well...worship him. We are not worthy, Shakespeare! I applaud thee.